Sizzling summer, the time of year when our thoughts turn to popsicles and pools… anywhere, anyhow to cool off. And what could be better than your own private little pond? It’s also this time of year, however, that one begins to notice the problems that can crop up in that bowl of liquid heaven. Is your pond turning into a mud pit? Green scum encrusted? Weeds too thick to wade through? Don’t fret and put that bathing cap back on; most pond problems have a workable solution.

Muddy water is not just unsightly; it can interfere with the growth and reproduction of fish and other pond life. Muddy water can be caused by erosion, livestock, wave action, and even fish. Erosion may be dealt with by stabilizing the bank and surrounding land with deeper rooted plants like shrubs. Livestock may be fenced out and, if too many fish are stirring up the muck, some may be removed.

Wave action that whips up sediment may be countered by spreading a layer of hay over the pond bottom to a few feet out from shore. Be careful to use a minimal amount, though, as the decaying hay might starve pond water of oxygen, resulting in dead fish. Where did the water go? The best insurance against a leaking pond is to select a good pond site and build it well. If leaks develop after the pond has been filled, the only recourse may be to drain the pond, let it dry, then apply a natural sealant, like bentonite clay.

Some amount of plant and algae growth is necessary in a healthy pond. Algae are naturally occurring tiny plants that are the main diet of microscopic animals, insects and fish that are then eaten by larger predators. Aquatic plants, which have leaves and roots, provide food and cover to pond denizens. These same beneficial aquatic plants and algae can become a problem, however, if they begin to clog up the pond.

For the short term, aquatic plants can be kept under control by pulling them up by hand or rake and removing them from the water. Invite the neighbors over for a weedpull-watermelon party. Any other aquatic nuisance control activity (like herbicides) will require a state permit, for more information contact the VTDEC Aquatic Nuisance Control Permit Program.

For the long term solution, first consider the pond’s history. Over time, ponds naturally fill in with leaves, sediment, decaying plants and other organic matter. As they become shallower, warmer, and nutrient rich; plants and algae will thrive. Older ponds with a deep buildup of sediment may eventually need to be drained and dredged, if they are to remain a pond. The resulting deeper, cooler pond with steeper sloping sides will be less likely to become choked with plants and algae.

Newer ponds with an overabundance of plant and algae growth likely have a nutrient invasion problem. The solution lies in sleuthing out the source of the nutrient over supply. Could it be farm run-off? Locate animal holding areas well back from waterways. Road runoff? Divert runoff away from streams and ponds. What about the septic? Septic systems should be located at least 100 feet from surface water and need to be pumped regularly. Lawn care? Fertilizer use should be reduced within 100 feet of streams and ponds.

One of the best boosters for pond health is to create and maintain a planted border. A buffer strip of trees, shrubs and groundcover around the pond will help to prevent stormwater and runoff, laced with sediment and excess nutrients, from reaching the pond. Banks in sad shape? A buffer planting will also help to stabilize and protect the shoreline. Like wildlife? Consider planting natives like shadbush, nannyberry and joe-pye. These plants, which provide food and cover for critters, will draw them in to your backyard paradise. Get out that raft and enjoy the view!

For more information on pond design and maintenance, visit your local Natural Resource Conservation District or call to order a copy of our pond manual; ‘Ponds – Planning, Construction, Management and Maintenance’.